Spring break. Two weeks to travel
in Europe. Where to go? Where to go?
These were the tough questions we faced while living in England for two
years. Honestly, it wasn’t that hard for
us to decide despite the fact there were so many wonderful options. We only had a few more months before we would
be crossing back over the pond returning to the US, and there was a city we
needed to see that is home to perhaps the most iconic and well recognized
structure in the world, and even though we had already spent a week in the
southern part of this country which we absolutely adorable, there was oh so
much more of it to see and eat our way across.
Any guesses? It’s really not that
hard to figure out, is it?
Early Friday morning and we set off in our car from our cottage in our
little village of Worthington to make the two to three hour trek towards
Dover. To get to France from England,
you need to cross the English Channel.
Now, we had already flown over the Channel many times, and we had made
the two hour ferry ride from Dover to Dunkirk on our very first trip to
continental Europe, so this time we decided to try a different mode of
transportation, the Chunnel - a 23.5-mile
train tunnel that goes underneath the English Channel - the longest undersea
portion of any tunnel in the world.
Because of the Chunnel, you can get on a train in London and a few short
hours later get off the train in Paris despite the fact that there are millions
and millions of gallons of seawater separating the two. We were taking our car to France this time,
and you can do that via the Chunnel as well, believe it or not. You quite literally drive your car into a
very confined and somewhat clausterphobic train car, the doors close in front,
in back and to the side of you, and the train starts to move as you drop 250
feet below sea level while you simply sit in your car.
You can get out and walk along the side of the train car, but there isn’t much to see. It’s pitch black outside the small train windows because you are after all inside an underground tunnel with vast of water churning above your head...but I did my best to not think about that during the train ride. Sounds fun, doesn’t it!
You can get out and walk along the side of the train car, but there isn’t much to see. It’s pitch black outside the small train windows because you are after all inside an underground tunnel with vast of water churning above your head...but I did my best to not think about that during the train ride. Sounds fun, doesn’t it!
There were loads of British going with us for that short 30 minute or so
train ride through the Chunnel. We weren’t
the only people on spring break after all, and as we neared the exit for the
train depot, maybe two miles away or so, traffic came to a complete
standstill. Ey yey yey! But never fear. Those Chunnel people were expecting
this. Signs on the side of the road
directed cars into the most orderly and polite queue we have ever
experienced. I tell you, we Americans
could learn a few lessons from the British.
When directed to get into the left lane to exit if you were heading to
the Chunnel (remember, we were driving in England), everyone, and I mean
everyone did…immediately! There were no
cars trying to get to the head of the line, budging in at the last minute and
enraging everyone behind them. And the
Chunnel authorities sent frequent texts to us assuring us that our spot on one
of the trains was still good even if we didn’t get there until two hours after
our scheduled train ride. So really, no
worries.
We were heading to Paris and I’ve spent much time debating whether or
not I should share this this next paragraph or not. But, honesty
has been my policy on this blog so far, so here goes: I don’t feel like I
connected with Paris in the way that I feel like I was supposed to connect with
Paris. Does that make any sense? It’s not really that I personally feel like I
should have connected to it, it’s more that from a society standpoint, Paris is
such an iconic place, portrayed as romantic and beautiful and why wouldn’t you
fall madly in love with Paris. I mean,
how many sappy but adorable movies have taken place on the streets of Paris anyway? Truth be told, I didn’t fall madly in love
with it, and maybe it’s because of the huge expectation that you should fall
madly in love with Paris. You know how
sometimes you expect so much of an experience beforehand that it’s kind of a letdown
when it actually happens. But there were
other circumstances at play during our visit to Paris that I think influenced
the experience for me. How much of an
impact, it’s hard to say. What were
these circumstances? Well, for starters
the horrendous four hour long drive we had across Paris through sections of the
city that surely will never appear on any tourist map, past what can only be
described as a shanty town built by refugees who had fled the horrors of their
homeland, heading towards a lot to park our car in for the duration of our visit to Paris which
we couldn’t find as the GPS coordinates were wrong and culminating in totally
being ripped off by the taxi driver who took us from where we finally parked our car to
the apartment we stayed in in the heart of the city. Even in Paris, a twenty-minute taxi ride does
not cost 80 Euros! Not a great first
impression did the city make. And
there were the terrorist attacks in Brussels which occurred a mere four days
before we departed on our trip to Paris which made coming to a city with a
severe terrorist threat alert of its own because of their own recently
horrendous attacks kind of rattling to the nerves. If it had been just Eric and me, I don’t
think that part would have bothered me as much.
But we had our kids with us and that just made me feel uneasy. Very uneasy.
Please don’t get me wrong. If you
have been to Paris and loved it, I totally get it. There is so much to see and do there. It truly is an amazing and beautiful city. And if you are going to Paris, you will enjoy
it. There is a vast amount of Paris we
did not see and experience and that I know is worth seeing and experience. This is just my own, humble opinion based on
a fairly short trip given the size of the city and filled with extenuating
circumstance. Honestly, given the events
surrounding our trip there, Paris really didn’t get a fair chance with me that
particular weekend.
And now that that is all said, you may be surprised when I tell you that
one of the top five things we saw in all of Europe was actually right there in
the very heart of Paris.
When we finally arrived in the heart of the city around 8:30 in the
evening, several hours late for meeting Jean-Michele whose apartment we would
be renting for the next couple of days, famished and absolutely deflated from
our terrible road trip into the city (and 80 Euros lighter I might add), I
almost cried when after showing us around his tiny one-bedroom apartment on the
7th floor and telling us to help ourselves to the open container of
milk he had stored in the cupboard (yes, that is the cupboard and not the
fridge – thanks, but no thanks, Jean-Michele), he led us out to the balcony and
above the building behind the apartment we could clearly see shining bright
against the now completely dark sky the Eiffel Tower.
I couldn’t take my eyes off it. It was mesmerizing. Absolutely the most beautiful sight I had seen all day and I could have stood there for an hour just simply staring at it. But we were hungry and thirsty so Jean-Michele pointed us towards a pizza place down the street and a grocery store around the corner where we picked up a bottle of wine, and after some nourishment and a drink, we took off at about 10:30 at night and walked to the Eiffel Tower.
I couldn’t take my eyes off it. It was mesmerizing. Absolutely the most beautiful sight I had seen all day and I could have stood there for an hour just simply staring at it. But we were hungry and thirsty so Jean-Michele pointed us towards a pizza place down the street and a grocery store around the corner where we picked up a bottle of wine, and after some nourishment and a drink, we took off at about 10:30 at night and walked to the Eiffel Tower.
To see the Tower at night for the first time…well, I’m not even sure how
to put it into words.
It was positively
stunning, but with a heavy tint of melancholy at the same time as it was lit up
in red, black and yellow, the colors of the Belgium flag in honor of the
victims of the attacks earlier that week.
In some way I can’t quite explain, this made it even more beautiful, or rather gave the Eiffel Tower an ethereal sense of beauty that it’s hard to believe can come from a gigantic man-made metal structure. But that is what it was, and I am so very happy we dragged our tired bodies the several blocks in the dark of night to see it up close.
This photo is from standing directly underneith the center of the Eiffel Tower. |
In some way I can’t quite explain, this made it even more beautiful, or rather gave the Eiffel Tower an ethereal sense of beauty that it’s hard to believe can come from a gigantic man-made metal structure. But that is what it was, and I am so very happy we dragged our tired bodies the several blocks in the dark of night to see it up close.
Fun fact about the Eiffel Tower:
Did you know that this beautiful structure was supposed to be temporary
when it was constructed? It was built as
the entrance to the 1889 World Fair and the engineer whose company designed and
built it, Gustave Eiffel (hence the name), had a permit for the tower to stand
for 20 years at which time it would be dismantled, which was the part of the
rules of the original design contest for the structure that would be the
entrance to the World Fair. Many
Parisians hated it, thinking it an eyesore in their beautiful city. But visitors to the Fair loved it. As the demolition date drew near some twenty
years later, those Parisians who still hadn’t warmed up to this ionic structure
called for it’s dismantling. But,
Gustave Eiffel, who had recently been hearing about this thing called radio,
decided to put a radio transmitter at the top of the Tower and gifted it to the
French government, giving them the power to convey messages much further than
previously possible. The Tower stayed,
and today it is the most visited paid monument in the world.
So, what did we actually do while in Paris? Well, we started with this of course...
Fresh croissants and some lovely little quiche, fresh strawberries and raspberries, and some jus de pomme (apple juice), all from the lovely farmer's market just around the block that you just expect to see in the streets of Paris on a Saturday morning. As soon as we were done feasting on our deliciously French breakfast, we made our way to the farmers market so the girls and I could what Eric had just happened upon earlier that morning as he snuck out of our little apartment to take some photos.
Such a quintessential Parisian market…
Fresh croissants and some lovely little quiche, fresh strawberries and raspberries, and some jus de pomme (apple juice), all from the lovely farmer's market just around the block that you just expect to see in the streets of Paris on a Saturday morning. As soon as we were done feasting on our deliciously French breakfast, we made our way to the farmers market so the girls and I could what Eric had just happened upon earlier that morning as he snuck out of our little apartment to take some photos.
Such a quintessential Parisian market…
Flowers...
And fruit...
And fish...
And other goodies from the sea...
And if you look closely at this photo...
Escargots of course, with the Eiffel Tower in the background. Does it get any more French than that?
And fruit...
And fish...
And other goodies from the sea...
And if you look closely at this photo...
Escargots of course, with the Eiffel Tower in the background. Does it get any more French than that?
And then we walked...
and walked and walked and walked.
We walked back to the Eiffel Tower because...
Well just because.
I mean, look at it.
and walked and walked and walked.
We walked back to the Eiffel Tower because...
Well just because.
I mean, look at it.
Why would you not walk back to the Eiffel Tower?
We crossed the bridge heading towards the Arch de Triomphe and the huge plaza that surrounds it…
We crossed the bridge heading towards the Arch de Triomphe and the huge plaza that surrounds it…
which is much much larger than I ever expected it to be with several lanes of cars
whizzing around it on a gargantuan roundabout.
We sat outside the Louvre which is absolutely enormous by the way, but
didn’t go in. Maybe next time.
We stopped in at the restaurant where we had gotten the pizza the first
night we arrived to have another Leffe on tap because if you like beer and
every get to a place that has the Belgium brewed Leffe on top, please stop and
have one. This was THE best tap beer I
have ever had.
Sunday morning, Easter, the girls woke and searched our little apartment for the French candy the Easter bunny had hidden. After a breakfast of pastries, of course, juice and coffee...
and some beautiful little pots of yogurt, we walked back to the Eiffel Tower where there was an Easter egg hunt about to get under way…
Sunday morning, Easter, the girls woke and searched our little apartment for the French candy the Easter bunny had hidden. After a breakfast of pastries, of course, juice and coffee...
and some beautiful little pots of yogurt, we walked back to the Eiffel Tower where there was an Easter egg hunt about to get under way…
An Easter egg hunt with the Eiffel Tower in the background…now that is
something you do not see everyday.
And that is it. That’s all we did
in Paris. We walked… a lot. Ate some croissants. Fell in love with the Eiffel Tower. But we would be spending the next two weeks
driving through France, and we had a lot more to see. We were heading south from Paris to walk in
the footsteps of Napoleon, and we planned to visit some prehistoric cave
drawings in the Dordogne region. We
would spend a couple of days in Brittany, and finally, make our way to Normandy
to visit and pay our respects to the great battle sites of World War II. So check back as I’ll be sharing all of this
with you over the next few weeks. But
until then, a few more pictures from Paris.
Au Revoir!
A giant chocolate Easter egg! |