While our
stay at the Gasthaus Zur Staude was a very pleasantly rural surprise, we did
specifically choose to stay in this particular area of the Black Forest for a
reason – we wanted to visit the town of Triberg…
The cuckoo
clock capital of the world. Sitting
right on the main street that passes through the center of town is the House of
1000 Cuckoo clocks. It’s quite a sight
as you can imagine, and hard to miss as the outside of the store is a gigantic
and adorable real working cuckoo clock.
Every hour the bears dance, climb up and down the rope, music plays, and
as you would expect, a cuckoo bird pops out of the little wooden door at the
top tweeting the hour.
Inside,
there really are hundreds of cuckoo clocks of every shape and size. It’s a
noisy place, but it’s fascinating for both the young and old to see all the
different scenes that decorate these fine clocks which were introduced to the
world from right here in the Black Forest.
I thought long and hard about getting one of the classic wooden chalet
style clocks, but I wondered if I would drag it all the way back to the USA
with us, put it up on our wall, step back and wonder, “Now why in the heck did
I think a cuckoo clock was a good idea?” Now that I’m back
home, I sort of wish I had one of the beautiful clocks hanging on my wall
keeping me company during the day.
But there
is more to find in the charming Black Forest town of Triberg than just cuckoo
birds…
This region
is also home to the Black Forest Cake (hence the name if you didn’t catch
that), or Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte as it's known in German, and there are signs offering up thick
slices of this deliciously sweet and tart dessert everywhere. Beautiful signs I might add.
The day we
visited Triberg it was rainy. But that
didn’t really dampen our spirits. We
walked around the small town enjoying its laid back, charming and welcoming
atmosphere.
The little shops were full
of all kinds of Germany trinkets, lots of cuckoo clocks, and colorful traditional
Germany dresses.
It's
funny and I'm not sure why this is (my own naivete I guess), but when we traveled to Italy and France
and Spain, I fully expected to find ornately decorated churches, but I wasn't
expecting it so much here in southern Germany. As we walked up a hill towards the steeple we could see above the town and saw the exterior of the church as we approached, it fit with this expectation.
It is beautiful in it's simplicity, but very modest in it's decoration.
But then we went inside...
and I was blown away by the exceptionally ornate interior of this church which is relatively small in size compared to many others we have seen in Europe.
After lunch and exploring the town a bit more, we started
on a hike, following a trail through the forest and up a hill high above the
town. We passed a small but powerful waterfall that gave testament to the fact that this Black Forest can be a rainy place, as it was that day.
The girls and I took a break on a soggy bench that was conveniently perched on the side of the path while we waited for Eric to take his photographs, using our raincoats to keep our backsides dry.
As we reached the top of the hill and emerged from the forest into an
open field, it started raining and it just got heavier and heavier as we tried to
continue.
We turned
back. But all was not lost because as we
dropped back into the town of Triberg, we found a cozy restaurant to stop in,
and there we had a nice warm cup of coffee…
And a thick
slice of creamy Black Forest Cake. There were smiles all around.
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